CityPost Installation Instruction
(1) Order of Operations for a successful CityPost Installation
(2) Cutting Aluminum Top Rail
(3) Installing Top Rail Fittings
(4) Installing the Top Rail
(5) Attaching the Top Rail to the Patent Pending Top Rail Bracket
(6) Installing the Patent Pending Top Rail Bracket in the Post
(7) Top Rail End Cap Install
(8) Installing the Cables
(9) Tightening the Cables
(10) CityPost Touch up Kit
(1) Full CityPost Install
(2) Stop Motion Kit
(3) How to Order
(4) CityPost Durability
Post Layout and Installation
- Layout your posts targeting 72” (6FT) spacing
- For our system, 72” (6FT) spacing spacing is the best combination of minimizing posts while maintaining support for top rail and cables
- If a segment end is next to a wall or column, ensure that the gap to the post is no more than 4”
- You have two options for corners; you can have the cable terminate for two separate segments or you can “turn the corner” for a continuous look
Post layout for two separate cable segments
Post layout for “turning the corner” – one continuous cable segment
- With the post in place, mark your anchor locations and confirm that all anchor screws will have sufficient backing
- After anchor locations have been marked, replace the posts and check plump with a level. It may be necessary to shim the occasional post. Simply place a washer underneath the post flange, directly under an anchor hole. When you are ready to install anchors, pre-drill with a 3/32” bit and use included bit to drive anchors
Top Rail Layout and Installation
NOTE: DO NOT INSTALL AND TENSION CABLE BEFORE YOUR TOP RAIL IS INSTALLED AND SECURED.
- Now that your post spacing is set, place the universal CityRail bracket into the posts
- Measure and cut your first top rail segment. Make miters as necessary. Position this top rail segment on the posts and brackets. Fine tune the position of this top rail segment to make sure it’s center and the ends are where they need to be. With the top rail still in place, use a drill bit to mark at least two locations per bracket for the segment. Once all bracket locations are marked, remove the top rail, flip it over and then secure all brackets to the segment. The bracket-post fit has generous tolerance designed in to make it easy to quickly locate them.
- Replace the top rail segment into position on the posts
- The next step is to secure the brackets to the posts. Pre-drill the brackets with a 3/32” drill bit and then drive the included top rail screws. The best technique for driving these screws is to maintain some forward pressure and spin the drill slowly. Be sure not to let the drill slip as it may damage the powdercoat finish on the posts.
Stainless Steel Cable, Fitting, and Hardware Installation
- Your CityPost order includes cable cut 1-2’ longer than your approximate segment lengths.
- Use the included swaging tool to secure fittings to one end of the cable. Apply the swage approximately 0.5” from the unthreaded end of the fitting for best results
- Run the cable through a segment end post and install the washer and nut.
NOTE: IF THE SEGMENT IS ONLY A STRAIGHT RUN, LEAVE ONE OR TWO THREADS EXPOSED – ENOUGH TO GET THE ACORN NUT ON. STRAIGHT SEGMENT CABLES TAKE UP TENSION QUICKLY. IF THE CABLE “TURNS A CORNER”, LEAVE ½-1 THREAD EXPOSED. A RUN OF CABLE THAT TURNS AN ANGLE WILL TAKE UP TENSION MORE SLOWLY AND YOU WILL HAVE TO TURN THE NUT MORE TIMES TO ACHIEVE THE DESIRED TENSION.
- Run the cable through the corresponding holes in the intermediate posts until you reach the end of the segment.
- A good approximation of where to make the final length cut is just inside the end post. After making the cut, test the fitting position to make sure not too much thread is protruding. Remember that when you apply tension, the threaded portion exposed will increase. If the first cut is too long, cut it again. If the cut is on the shorter side, move the fitting outward – the cable doesn’t need to be bottomed out in the fitting
- After the final cable length is reached and the fitting in the right position, swage it on to the cable and add the washer and nut to the threaded end. DO NOT TENSION CABLE YET.
- Repeat this process until all cable runs are installed.
- Starting with a middle cable, hold the fitting with vicegrips securely enough to prevent it from turning without crushing it. Turn the nut to apply tension. IDEAL TENSION IS JUST ENOUGH TO TAKE OUT ANY VISIBLE SNAG. THEY DO NOT NEED TO BE “GUITAR STRING” TIGHT. IT’S POSSIBLE TO APPLY A LOT OF FORCE VERY quickly.
- Apply tension to the cables working your way outward, alternating above and below (ex. Tighten cable 6, 5, 7, 4, 8, 3, 9, 2, 10, 1, 11)
- Remember that you can tighten the cable by turning the nuts on either end. If too much thread is exposed on one end, take up tension on the other end.
- Once all cables have reached the appropriate tension, apply a drop of thread locker to the exposed thread and install to acorn nut.